Thursday, May 22, 2008
Classified
The classified section of this site had been moved to the CURD Site.
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Sunday, September 16, 2007
Wheel bearing X-ref
Rob T reports that SKF 62u4 2RSH/c3 from NAPA is a sealed bearing that is a direct replacement for the Timken 30204
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Saturday, August 04, 2007
garage deprived
I have a very small garage attached to my home. It is heated and perfect, except it is small. My Harley lives there along with sleeping accommodations for Que, Dax and Trek - my three German Shep. companions. There is no room for my Ural. I considered a ‘baby barn’, but even that would require modification to allow for the bike to get though the door. I also wanted something in the front of my house, next to my driveway, that would allow me to enter and exit in the winter without having to move the usual 5 feet of snow that will be in my back yard.
I considered a ‘bike barn’‘ from bikebarn.net for 6 months. After inquiring of other owners, I finally clicked on the buy button, and 5 days later the package arrived. Unfortunately, they sent me the wrong product. The product they shipped was for a large touring bike, rather than the trike / sidecar / Smart Car product. A call to the vendor and, with apologies, they rushed a replacement. 6 days later the replacement arrived.
Assembly is not quite as easy as the vendor suggests, but with careful reading of their instructions it does not require an engineering degree. The instructions suggest one allocate 90 minutes for assembly. I started at 6:30 PM and finished at 10 PM. Admittedly, it was 25 degrees c. and 98 % humidity - the 4 beers may not have added to my dexterity.
After assembly, I was surprised at how big it was (I should not have been, as the site is accurate as to dimensions). It is 11 feet, 3 inched long and 75 inches wide. It seems to be very well thought out and of robust construction. It is exactly as advertised.
Where I live is very exposed to severe weather. There is nothing between me and Newfoundland but a small field and open water. 120 KPH winds are assured during the winter and we have heavy snow. Thus, for me, it is important to position this in a sheltered location. I also built a small deck, to position the barn, and to provide a level and firm attachment point. The first test was last night, when a micro burst passed though with high winds and heavy rains. No problems were encountered.
The anchoring plates for the back section of the frame are adequate, but I will probably modify the attachment straps for the front section.
This appears to be a good product - well built and exactly as advertised. The service I received from he vendor when they sent the wrong product was very good and I have no complaints.
I will wait for the first real winter storm before I recommend to others, but at this point I am pleased with the purchase.
Update - we had 90 KPH winds and heavy rain yesterday. My bike stayed dry and the barn is intact.
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Friday, June 08, 2007
Update carb flanges
The process of upgrading the Russian carb flanges with the Mikuni flange is relatively straight forward. I managed to accomplish it in 45 minutes, and I am not a mechanic.
The first recommendation is to replace the 4 hex head bolts (two on each carb) with Allen head bolts. The existing hex heads are just a little two large for comfortable fit with the new flanges. After you have the new bolts, remove the carb. Start by removing the two screws that hold the bottom of the carbs to the support bracket. Back off the clamp holding the carb to the breather tube. Back off the clamp that holds the carb to the existing flanges.
Gently twist the carbs and pull them out of the rubber boot on the old flanges. Remove the 2 bolts holding on each flange and remove old flange. You no longer need the support brackets or gaskets that you removed.
Using the new Allen head bolts, connect the new flanges. It is easier if you have removed the brass clamp on the new flange before you do this. Tighten the Allen head bolts firmly and put the brass clamp back on the new flange. Using a slight twisting motion and pressure, push the carbs in the new flange (it is tight, but you will know when it slips in properly, and there is a lip that the carb will slide into), and then tighten the brass clamps.
Finally, start the bike and spray a little WD40 around the flanges. If the idle increases when you do this, check for leaks. This can cause a burnt piston.
You may have to re-balance the carbs (I did).
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Wednesday, March 07, 2007
Aux fuel tank
I looked at this product for over a year, and I had a hard time visualizing where it would be installed and how. On arrival it seemed that the best place was on the inside of the trunk panel.
As I would be hanging 3.5 gallons of fluid, and as the sheet metal on the sidecar has some flex, I inserted a small sheet of 1/8 inch plywood on the inside of the trunk. This added the necessary stiffness. It may or may not have been needed, but the scrap of wood was available.
Prior to hanging the tank, I replaced the bung outlet with a 90 degree fitting as I wanted to take the fuel line to the bikes frame without a sharp bend.
The fuel line is standard rubber fuel line and is routed along the bike lower frame rail. A fuel filter was installed close to the new tank.
The fuel line follows the lower frame, goes up a bit and then over to the crossover fuel line running from the main tank. A shut-off was installed close to carbs and a T-fitting installed to allow fuel to enter the crossover fuel line.
The key to having fuel make it to the carbs is to keep the bottom of the aux tank, higher than the T-fitting feeding fuel to the crossover.
I will probably make a few more modifications. The fuel line will most likely be replaced with stainless braided and I will be watching the line for any abrasion. If there is any, it will be relocated - probably to run along the side of the sidecar body.
This is not a cheap option. The current price is listed at $139 US. The fitting kit is $44 US (very high quality) and shipping was $12US. $195US is probably extravagant for the extra fuel capacity, but I would do it again.
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Sunday, March 04, 2007
Playing with Dolly
Rob T. has been taking some teasing about his ‘dolly’, which he has built to support the sidecar while separated. Rob advises
Key points about the dolly: the wheelbase needs to be longer than the abs plastic pipe support to minimise tip over. All 4 castors need to swivel. Tie downs are essential. 2 hd bungees might be simpler than my arrangement, but I happened to have the cleat. 3/4” plywood would be better than the piece of pine I used - again, it was a piece kicking around.
Dimensions of mine are base 30"x12", 2” abs pipe cut lengthways 25” long. Total height 14” at front. 13” at rear. This is adjustable with the 1/2” threaded rods and the nuts securing them to the base. Castors have 3” wheels which are fine on a reasonably smooth floor. 4” castors might be better yet, but cost more.
Posted by Craig at 08:22 PM in | Comments (0) | Email this entry
For tall riders
CURD member, Rob T. is taller than most, and found the Ural seating position somewhat cramped. Pictured below, is Rob’s modification.
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Monday, September 04, 2006
Installation of dual hand shifter
Installing the dual hand shifter took me about three hours. Having a helper will speed up the task. The next time I suspect it would take about 2. Step one is to take the thing out of the shipping box and lay it out on the floor and try to figure out what goes where. You will note two shifters (usual foot shifter and a reverse shifter) all attached to a main cross-over piece that bolts to the top of the engine.
Rub your chin knowingly and figure out where everything goes. It helps to go, ‘hmmmmmm’.
Disconnect the bits and pieces so that you will have individual parts to install. When it arrives, everything is connected.
I started by installed the piece that goes across the top of the engine. Removed the two nuts and washers that are on top of the engine (I could not get a good picture, but it is obvious). You do not have to remove the tank. Line up the shifter mount holes with these the two studs and replace the nuts and washers. Note there is a ground wire that was attached to one of the studs and this needs to be reattached when you put the nuts back on. Tighten the nuts - lock tite probably a good idea.
Now take off the reverse shifter lever. Just remove the nut and washer and wiggle the lever off. Replace the lever you took off with the new lever, but do not put the nut and washer back on yet. Connect the reverse lever to the reverse shifter lever with the linkage provided.
Now you will want to make sure that the shifter handle does not hit the bottom of the tank when moved. Experiment with placement of the reverse shifter on the engine and linkage adjustment. It takes a bit of fussing, but works fine. Tighten the nut and washer on the shifter lever on the handle. Recheck to make sure that the shifter lever is not hitting the bottom of the tank.
Return to the other side of the bike and remove the nut and washer that is holding the existing foot shifter. Wiggle the shifter off and replace with the new shifter that comes with the kit.
Place the new shifter pedal so that the position is similar to the one that you just took off.
Move to the front of the bike, and remove the nut on the engine mount stud and the nut on the inside of the engine guard bar. Place the new mount over the frame and tap it in to place. You may need to grind off a small spot on this mount to make it sit tightly on the frame. (I did). I also added a couple of washers as spacers to the engine guard stud, rather than try to bend the mount.
Now connect the linkage to the shifter and the linkage that goes to the top of the engine. Adjust the linkage so that nothing is hitting the frame.
Check everything again. Make sure you have all connections tight and that shifting will not cause any bits to hit. You are done. Enjoy.
Posted by Craig at 08:15 PM in | Comments (3) | Email this entry
Wednesday, August 30, 2006
rear brake light switch
If you have established that the rear (foot pedal) brake light switch is malfunctioning, chances are it either needs to be adjusted or replaced. This switch operates by a little plunger that drops down when the pedal is depressed, causing the brake light to come on. First check the adjustment. Roll back the rubber boot that is covering the switch and make sure both connectors are plugged into the top of the switch. If they are, use a little hand held mirror and light to see if the plunger is dropping a sufficient distance to allow the switch to close, taking current to the light. If the switch needs adjustment, disconnect the two wires (make sure ignition is off as touching the frame with either wire will blow a fuse), back off the lock nut and screw the switch in or out to find the correct position of the plunger VS pedal. IF the brake light was always on, chances are you can fix the problem with this adjustment, presuming the switch plunger is not completely filled with grunge.
IF you need to replace the switch, just continue to unscrew the switch and remove. Remove the lock nut, put it on the new switch and screw the new switch in. Adjust, connect wires and roll the boot back down over the top of the switch. It does not matter which of the two wires is connected to the two plugs.
You are done.
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Friday, July 28, 2006
observations
I am reproducing an article I just read here. As the site seems to be somewhat out of date, I want to get this info recorded here in case the site disappears. Full and appropriate credit to the original author.
At 9900KM, I’m 100 klicks away from the magical 10,000KM mark for the year on my personal bike - a 1998 Deco with E-start and a fairing.
When I started this adventure, I knew that my “brand new old bike” would have some faults, and it did. Most of these were minor, and most were electrical in nature. None left me stranded, though, and nothing I did to the rig resulted in more than an hour or two of shop time to make it right again.
Mind you, I rode this thing HARD. My mechanical friends have a word for it...Chuckmiles. They are of the opinion that one Chuckmile is like three normal miles. I’ve been out on the freeway at 70+ for over 100 KM, regularly taken the rig one 300+km roadtrips around the state, shifted at redline hundreds of times, attempted pending lockup stops from 60+ MPH, and considered a decent cruising speed to be 65 MPH. 90% of the KM accumulated are 50 MPH and above, and a good two thirds of the time I was at my cruising speed.
In short, I attempted to beat the URAL snot outta the bike.
Here’s what I’ve learned:
1. Break-in is CRITICAL. Follow the rules...I’ve ridden rigs that have not been properly broken in, and there is NO comparison.
2. There is NO comparison between a new bike and a full broken-in bike...They are two completely different animals. For example, there is a hill by my house that I could barely muster 35 MPH up on my 200 klick motor...Yesterday, I tore up it at 60 MPH with the throttle at 30%. Power output will increase by at least 50% over time, especially in the upper RPM ranges.
3. The bike continues to loosen up well after the 2500 KM mark. I was still gaining power at 7000 KM.
4. Shift quality improves dramatically over time. The box is VERY notchy for the first 2500 km, but really begins to smooth out between 2500 - 5000KM. I have developed a very quick roll-off upshift which give me a gear change which rivals much more expensive equipment.
5. The key to a solid gearshift is to adopt a “Press and hold” method. PRESS the shifter into gear with your heel, then HOLD it for a second. This allows the shift quadrant to “find” the detent. Snicking it in to gear with short jabs like a Japanese box simply won’t work well...Toe shifting yields the same result.
6. Starting procedures will change dramatically over the life of the bike. After mine is primed, I can hand-crank it and get it to catch. It just keeps getting easier…
7. These bikes are more sensitive to adjustment than any other motorized vehicle I’ve EVER worked on...Get your adjustments correct, and they’re a joy to ride. I worked on one recently which had been neglected...A long story. Anyhow, a few simple adjustments and the bike COMPLETELY changed personality.
The critical adjustments are:
A. Timing - 9 degrees BTDC is IT.
B. Pickup coil - Set it at 0.010”, no more, no less.
C. Valve clearances - A tight 0.002” clearance will result in a very crisp throttle with a minimum of valve train noise.
D. Air screws - ONE to ONE and a HALF turns is all your air screws should be set at on a 28 mm carb...If they are out any further, the motor will run excessively lean and “blue” your pipes. After 10,000km, mine are still a light honey color, and I haven’t uses any Blue Job on them in 8000KM.
8. And finally, the final drive. Final drives are completely LEAK-FREE when filled to the correct level. I had trouble with mine the first few thousand klicks, but discovered it was a result of the “More is better” train of thought. Single wheel final drives require EXACTLY 110ml of fluid...Go to the drugstore and get a medicine measuring cup to do this. It won’t seem like all that much, but it IS the right amount.
Soo...for those of you wondering what your rig’s gonna be like in a few thousand klicks...Well, it’s only gonna get better!
Posted by Craig at 09:15 AM in | Comments (0) | Email this entry
Cross-X
I lost the link to the following, but may be of use to someone. I have no idea if the references are accurate.
Jay Gaffney’s Ural Parts X-Reference
The subject of parts x-referencing comes up alot. I have been trying to save this info where ever I find it, and I have come up with some that might be of use to others.
I remember a post from a Ural owner or dealer from Europe, I think, who was doing this same thing. I don’t remember if it was on the NARMA list or the Ural Discussion, so I am cross posting this message to both places. If this European owner wants to contact me, or to use this info, please do so.
Please let me know if I have missed any of your favorites!
THX,
Jay
**************************************************************
Parts cross reference for Ural Motorcycles
This cross reference was compiled from sources such as the Ural Discussion Board, the NARMA Mailing list, and various Ural dealers. I have not tried all these replacements yet. Efforts have been made to verify accuracy of information, but please use at your own risk.
Airbox hose for 1999+ models ( chrome airbox ) - 21047 Gates radiator hose
Air filter for 1999+ ( chrome airbox ) - K&N E-2470.
Dash lights - The lights are made by Cole Hersee Co.
The part numbers go like this-
PL-86-AC is the amber one
PL-86-BC is the blue one
PL-86-GC is the green one (I think)
PL-86-RC is the red one (I think)
Seals
Rear crankshaft seal - NAPA # 66524 50mm X 70mm X 9mm
Transmission output shaft seal - NAPA # 13941 35mm X 48 X 8mm
Wheel bearings
All wheels - Timken #30204
THX to -
Ural America
Thomas Creedon
Fredda Cole
Hal Thompson
Pam & Richard Catruch, Timberland
Felicia Landes, Wagners
Gus Wahrer, Hudson Valley
Bill Kowal
Norbert Volz X-reference List:
Topic: X-Reference List Update (1 of 3), Read 160 times
Conf: Owners’ Reign: Chat, Tips, Tricks
From: Norbert Volz (
Date: Monday, May 15, 2000 12:25 AM
As some of you might remember, I collected some cross-references for OEM parts that can be used on URAL motorbikes. Jay Gaffney set up an excellent substitution list which is available through the NARMA site at http://www.narma.org/narma/techtips.html , so instead of “re-inventing the wheel” I just added a few items and alternatives.
As my technical English is missing quite a few words which one doesn’t find in a common dictionary, I would like to apologize for any faults or inadequate translations, sometimes the original source for the X-reference has not been very accurate with regard to terminology, for instance which bearing is exactly meant by “engine” below - the crankshaft perhaps? Therefore, any comments or corrections, especially with regard to terminology, are greatly appreciated. Also, the parts listed are somewhat biased towards the European market.
Please note that I did not check all of these suggestions, so you’re using them entirely at your own risk.
Bearings:
Valve rocker arm: SKF 51102
Camshaft: SKF 6205 IC 3QE6
Gearbox: SKF 6205 0351
Alternator: SKF 62203 2RS1 N45
Driveshaft: NS 204 ECP
Engine: SKF 6207
Oil Seals:
Gear shift lever +
reverse: OFW A5 12x25x8
Transmission
output shaft: NAPA 13941 35x48x8; NAK 36x48x10
Rear crankshaft
seal: NAPA 66524 50x70x9; CFW 3 3AV4 50x70x12/8
Driveshaft: SC 32x45x7
Camshaft: 17x30x7/6 CFW A2 BA FU D1x7
Steering Head: BMW R68
Electric:
Regulator: Hella 5DR004 243-05
Coil: Citroen 2 CV (from car breakers)
Spark Plugs:
NGK BP 4 HS - BP 6 HS
Bosch W 5 BC - W 7 BC
Beru Z 10
Isolator 14x175
(choice of spark plugs depending on overall engine performance and condition)
Tyres:
Barum 4.00-19
Avon Roadrunner 4.10-19
Pirelli RC 21 4.00-19
Best regards,
Norbert Volz
Mannheim, Germany
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Sunday, June 11, 2006
Rear drive leak
After changing the rear drive fluid, I noticed an oil stain on the rear wheel. First just a stain, then some real dirt and oil boogars (another tech term) building up. Next a few drips on the floor. Next a wee puddle. Russian tears or not - time to find the darn thing. I got out the trusty Gunk degreaser and cleaned things up and checked the drain plug. Seemed tight, but added a little extra twist and rode. Still there. Hmmm, starting to think ungood things about seals.
When I changed the fluids I had used yellow Teflon tape, but who knows - drained the fluids again and had a good look at the drain plug. The Teflon tape was still there, but I also noticed what appears to be the remnants of an O-ring. I am not sure if there is supposed to be an O-ring there, but whatever this is, it has seen much better days. (Can someone let me know if there is supposed to be an O-ring there?)
One of my friends who rides a Harley uses a sealant, so decided to so the same. I have some Canadian Tire Pipe Dope on the shelf, noted as being resistant to oil and heat, and guaranteed to never harden. Smeared a little on the male plug threads, tightened the plug, refilled and rode. No leak so far.
(update 200 KM drive and no further leak.)
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Saturday, May 27, 2006
Rear brake light switch
Mine stopped turning on the brake light when I used the rear brake pedal. Crawled under the bike to see the switch and there is a little spring loaded pin that drops down when you press the pedal. This closes the circuit and the brake light glows. Mine was not dropping to close the circuit and 15,000 KM of grunge was apparent. Applied the Russian’s friend (WD-40) and cleaned up the switch. It now drops into place nicely and light glows as it should.
Posted by Craig at 01:47 PM in | Comments (0) | Email this entry
Brake light
The front brake light would not come on unless I squeezed the handle hard enough to lock the front wheel. As I am a ‘front brake sort of guy’, this would not do.
I had a close look at the front brake control and noted there is a little micro-switch that controls the brake light. The position of the point of engagement is adjustable. Just in front of the brake handle grip, are two very small slotted screws. On the bottom are equally small nuts. Find some small tools (I ended up using my computer repair tools) and loosen the two screws. Now you can move the micro switch enough to adjust to a point where the brake light comes on as soon as you squeeze the handle. Find that spot, and tighten down the screws, testing frequently to make sure the switch has not moved. You should now be good to go.
Posted by Craig at 01:40 PM in Electrical | Comments (0) | Email this entry
Sunday, May 14, 2006
Removing the air box
This one is fairly straight forward. Using a flat screwdriver, loosen the clamps that hold the rubber (like) manifold pipes that go from the carb to the air box. Do this on both carbs. Remove the breather tube from engine to air box. Using a wrench, remove the nuts that are holding the breather box to the mounting bracket and gently slide the breather out.
Posted by Craig at 10:32 AM in Motor | Comments (0) | Email this entry